If I were to ask you what you ate for dinner last night, I’m sure your response would involve the name of a curry. Of course, the flavour and names would differ across regions — maacher jhol (a fish-style recipe popular in West Bengal), xacuti (a spicy curry prepared in Goa with red chillies, coconut, onions and a meat), kadhi (a gram flour gravy comprising vegetable fritters) and korma (a gravy dish comprising meat braised with vegetables and yoghurt).
Curry is central to Indian gastronomy. And, the question begs to be asked, when did India’s love affair with curries begin?
According to some reports, it was around 4,000 years ago.
As two archaeologists Arunima Kashyap and Steve Webber of Washington State University discovered through their experiment in 2010 — where they used the method of starch grain analysis to map residues of the world’s ‘oldest’ proto-curry from the shards of a handi (a clay pot) at the Harappan excavation site of Farmana (in Haryana) — the ingredients comprised traces of eggplants (brinjals), ginger, turmeric and salt in them; ingredients similar to the modern curry.
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While the history of the curry recipe is coloured, so is the history surrounding its name. Some claim that the word curry originated from the Tamil word kari, while food historian Lizzie Collingham’s book ‘Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors’ says it was the Goan caril that was the origin.
Today, with numerous takes on the dish, the curry is the heart and soul of India, so here’s exploring its many forms.
1. Gushtaba
The dish is a spicy take on a meatball curry. Flavourful mutton mince balls are married with a thick yoghurt gravy to result in this preparation that is hailed as ‘maharajaon ka khana‘ (a feast for kings). In fact, in a traditional Kashmiri Wazwan (a feast comprising 36 dishes), gushtaba is served as the last dish before dessert.
2. Pulissery
Popular in Kerala and other parts of South India, the pulissery is a traditional yoghurt-based curry that often features pineapple as the hero ingredient. The lip-smacking dish also has a spot on the Onam saadya platter. The best part of this dish is that you can prepare it with a seasonal fruit or any vegetable of your choice. This summer, why not try it with mango?
3. Besara
A traditional flavourful gravy made with ground mustard seeds, besara is famous not just for its delectable taste but also for its religious significance. The dish is one of the 56 that are offered as mahaprasad at the Puri Shree Jagannath Temple. There are numerous variations of the besara depending on the hero ingredient. For instance, maccha besara refers to fish in mustard gravy while the poi chingudi besara features shrimp and spinach.
4. Lal Maas
A popular delicacy in Rajasthan, lal maas literally translates to ‘red meat’ and dates back to the 7th century. Legend says that the recipe for lal maas was invented on the go during hunting expeditions. Meat would be cooked with generous servings of yoghurt and ghee. But the story goes that one Maharaja rejected the dish as it still gave off a strong smell even after cooking. A cook’s quick thinking of adding chillies to the dish to take away the odour gave birth to our beloved lal maas.
5. Masor Tenga
The quintessential Assamese dish translates to a tangy fish curry and takes no more than 20 minutes to prepare. It is enjoyed for lunch and dinner with a bowl of steamed rice. It is said that the dish is a significant one in Assam and is a symbol of unity and togetherness.
6. Jholi
A speciality of Uttarakhand’s pahadi cuisine, jholi is prepared using curd and besan (chickpea flour) as the base ingredients along with tubers and vegetables and even lentils. The dish is rich in calcium, protein and probiotics, and is a favourite during the winter when the temperatures drop. An addition of spices makes it a perfect bowl of warmth.
7. Kofta Curry
A classic ‘meatballs in gravy’ dish, the kofta curry can be prepared in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian styles, with vegetables substituting the meat in the former. Lauki (gourd), raw banana, and paneer (cottage cheese) koftas are very popular in many homes across India. While the koftas are often deep-fried, some recipes also prefer them to be poached and cooked in the curry itself, making this a one-pot recipe.
8. Chura Sabji
A delicacy of Arunachal Pradesh, this dish blends fermented cheese made from yak’s milk with chilli flakes. The two ingredients are a powerhouse of flavour, and the resulting dish is eaten with fluffy rice. The dish is a staple in the state and is eaten by the members of the indigenous tribes.
Edited by Pranita Bhat.
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24.04.2024
If I were to ask you what you ate for dinner last night, I’m sure your response would involve the name of a curry. Of course, the flavour and names would differ across regions — maacher jhol (a fish-style recipe popular in West Bengal), xacuti (a spicy curry prepared in Goa with red chillies, coconut, onions and a meat), kadhi (a gram flour gravy comprising vegetable fritters) and korma (a gravy dish comprising meat braised with vegetables and yoghurt).
Curry is central to Indian gastronomy. And, the question begs to be asked, when did India’s love affair with curries begin?
According to some reports, it was around 4,000 years ago.
As two archaeologists Arunima Kashyap and Steve Webber of Washington State University discovered through their experiment in 2010 — where they used the method of starch grain analysis to map residues of the world’s ‘oldest’ proto-curry from the shards of a handi (a clay pot) at the Harappan excavation site of Farmana (in Haryana) — the ingredients comprised traces of eggplants (brinjals), ginger, turmeric and salt in them; ingredients similar to the modern curry.
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