Courtesy of Romeo A
Hi, I’m Charlie. I’ll be your guide for the night. I hope you’re ready because we’re about to explore the reality of Korea. Things might get a bit messy, your make-up might start running, we might miss the last train home, and there’s a possibility you’ll end up drunk-dialing someone. But, as Koreans, we’re in it together. So, strap in. Let’s get this show on the road.
Pre-Game
You step off the train on a Friday night and emerge from the depths of Seoul’s subway system, a place we call Ji-ok-chul (literal hell). You are enveloped in a symphony of sights and sounds. Neon lights so bright you can almost hear them buzz. People push and move quickly all around you. Everyone’s got somewhere to go and here in Korea, we do things pali-pali (quickly-quickly). There’s a silence among people as they travel around the city, but it’s a silence so loud it gets you charged up for the night.
Before we order a bottle of Fresh (soju), let’s go over some basic rules: 1) When pouring a drink for someone, remember to hold the bottle with both hands: Your right hand gripping the bottle, and your left hand, supporting your wrist. 2) Never pour for yourself – Not only is it considered disrespectful, it’s also said to bring bad luck. 3) It is considered polite to turn away from your elders when drinking. 4) When drinking with friends, for the inaugural shot of the night, you can raise your glass and say ‘Jjan!’ - an informal way to say “Cheers!” This might all sound confusing and hard to remember, but don’t worry. If you are a tourist and happen to stray from these guidelines after a few too many shots, that is COMPLETELY FINE! Just focus on having fun and being with the people around you. That is what Soju is for after all. Now that we’ve covered the essentials, let’s get down to business.
Work hard, drink harder
Koreans categorize their drinking escapades into rounds, known locally as ‘cha’. So the first place you go to on a Friday night will be 1 cha, the second place will be 2 cha, and so on. Normally, each cha brings with it a different vibe. The first cha normally involves dinner. So, whether it’s the national favorite of chicken and beer (Chimaek), jeon and makgeolli on a rainy day, or the classic Korean BBQ, the options are endless! We drink, of course, when eating. Every person has their own style and each dish goes with a particular type of drink. But in Korea, rather than everyone order their own thing, we drink together. We become one. This brings us closer together and gets us ready for round two.
Now that we’re no longer starving, we can finally get to drinking! This is the second stage: 2 cha. When drinking, we head to a pocha: picture a pocha as akin to a Korean dive bar. The primary purpose of this establishment is to serve soju and other alcoholic beverages with a side of anju (side dishes served with alcohol). Pochas are a popular choice amongst university students because they’re cheap and have all the right vibes. Table after table of groups of young people, shouting, laughing, and filling the room with sounds never dared uttered in a classroom or a home. While bars are for mingling, pubs are for merriment, and clubs are for dancing, the pocha is for drinking. Each table has its own little electronic bell or a digital menu screen so you can get fresh alcohol brought straight to your table. There’s no waiting in line. There’s no small talk with strangers at the bar. This is just you and your friends with an unlimited supply of cheap alcohol, each other’s company, and the desire to see oblivion together. To drink away the stress of life, to eradicate, however temporarily, the pressures of academia and modernity. To forget the sky-high beauty standards of Korean society and finally become equal to those around you; honest, blotchy, and truly democratized through a green bottle.
So, now we’re drunk. What’s next? The 3 cha: Singing! Now, you may be thinking, “I’m a terrible singer! I could never sing in front of other people!” Let me tell you, I have witnessed some truly terrible, god awful singers in Noraebang. I am one of them! But remember, the Noraebang isn’t about showcasing your vocal prowess, it’s about letting loose and enjoying life, even if only for a moment. The microphones are drenched in reverb which covers most of the problems, and noisily banged tambourines drown out the sharp notes. Lights spin around the room in time with your head, people clap on the 1 and 3 beat (rather than the 2 and 4) as another ballad threatens to bring tears; someone jumps up on the chairs and asks the world to bear witness to their intoxication. My own noraebang setlist spans a wide range of genres: from old school hip-hop and K-Pop hits to Guns N’ Roses, military songs, and, of course, lots and lots of drunk guilty pleasures.
Congratulations on making it this far. By now, only the truly resilient remain standing. Many have gone home. Some worried about work the next day. Some simply not capable of going this long. A night out in Seoul is akin to stepping into the ring with Mike Tyson, most people only make it to the third round. And some lose more than their ears. But if you’re among the alcoholic-whales, there’s still more to go.
We grab some beer from the convenience store and head to the Han River. The views here are amazing. And, if you have a good local guide, they’ll take you to Banpo Station, Yeouido Station, or Ttukseom Station for the best views of the river. The chaos starts to subside. The ringing in your ears gives way to quiet murmurs and whispers. Secrets are told. Confessions are made. Bonds, deep unforgettable bonds, are made at this time. Human connections are forged. Individuals become groups. Groups become friends. Friends become individuals.
The hangover
And then you wake-up. Sometimes to the sound of cicadas, sometimes to an election truck shouting outside your window about the policies of the latest suit-wearing ajjoshi seeking your vote. But every time with the dreaded hangover; an old friend of mine. I always opt for a trusted traditional remedy: Hangover Soup. Yes, you read that right, Hangover Soup. There is a soup in Korean tradition specifically crafted to alleviate the inevitable symptoms of a heavy night of drinking. The craziest part? It actually works! This soup helps me get through the day, get to my university classes, and then get ready to do it all again the next time. This is Korean life for some of us.
But soju isn’t always like what you see in K-dramas. It’s not only about drowning your sorrows in those green bottles when your lover leaves you or your boss fires you. It’s also a fuel for happiness. It’s for celebrating life and cherishing moments with the people you love. Soju is there during the good times and the bad times.
The aftermath
As the hangover soup works its magic, we all begin to feel a bit jaded. That is, until you decide to check your phone. As you scroll through your camera roll, the night starts to come back to you in fragments: a blur of everyone singing Billy Joel’s ‘Piano Man’ in the karaoke room, a moment of your friend drunkenly dialing his ex despite your desperate pleas, and then you, holding your friend’s hair back as she empties the contents of 1 cha and 2 cha into the toilet bowl. The circle of life, of drinking, repeating, recycling, and returning.
Seoul’s nightlife is an adventure waiting to happen! Find the beauty in the blurred lines. I’ll see you there soon.
JJAN!
Charlie (khpark1@outlook.com) is a student at Hanyang University, Seoul.
Dr. David A. Tizzard (datizzard@swu.ac.kr) has a Ph.D. in Korean Studies and lectures at Seoul Women's University and Hanyang University. He is a social-cultural commentator and musician who has lived in Korea for nearly two decades. He is also the host of the "Korea Deconstructed" podcast, which can be found online.
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